Hot Sale ⌛ 2 X 900 Lumens Super Bright 3014 78-EX Chipsets 3056 3156 3057 3057K 3157 4157 LED Bulbs With Projector For Tail Lights Turn Signal Lights,Xenon White ????

8 reviews for Hot Sale ⌛ 2 X 900 Lumens Super Bright 3014 78-EX Chipsets 3056 3156 3057 3057K 3157 4157 LED Bulbs With Projector For Tail Lights Turn Signal Lights,Xenon White ????

1. 

   Rated 5 out of 5

   September 15th Interests, LLC – June 7, 2017

   Bulbs work perfectly, but have hyperflash issue which is fairly common when switching from factory incandescents to LED’s. Most new vehicles have the ability to “check” bulbs so you can be alerted on your dash info panel when there’s an issue. These bulb sensors evidently look for resistance on some level and, when there isn’t any, they give you an error code. LED (Light Emitting Diode) bulbs only allow electricity to go one way (much like a backflow preventing valve in a water system) which is why you sometimes need to turn them over to get light – most are polarity sensitive. On my ’14 Ram, each bulb has, essentially, it’s own circuit – they are not run in parallel like older vehicles – which is how the computer in your vehicle “sees” each bulb. There are 2 ways to attack this issue: First is to replace the flasher (even the dealer doesn’t know where mine is located) with an LED compatible one or install a 50 watt 6 ohm resistor at every bulb location. I have chosen the resistor route. The resistor must be connected from the wire which makes the bulb flash directly to a METAL ground. This will trick your computer sensor into believing the bulb is OK, thus no more error code. I bought mine on Amazon for less than $7 here: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UNG3EXQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)To determine which wire makes the bulb flash, you will need an inexpensive meter (about $10 nearly everywhere) which will measure DC volts. Remove the bulb from the socket, turn on your key, and turn on your emergency flashers. Hold the black wire probe on the meter firmly to a clean metal surface on your vehicle and start to INDIVIDUALLY touch each of the pins in the socket. The pin that makes your meter voltage go on and off is the one you’re looking for. Determine which wire connects that pin, and install your resistor from that wire to METAL ground on your vehicle. This isn’t rocket science and even a super beginner can do this.Further, there are STANDARD base bulbs and CK base bulbs. I’ll try to explain how to tell the difference in your vehicle. You will need an inexpensive meter which will test continuity and are available nearly everywhere for about $10. The setting you will need to use is OHMS (Ω). REMOVE THE BULB from the socket you want to test, and, if possible, unplug the socket from the wire which feed it. Now, think of a CAPITAL letter H. If you have continuity between the top or bottom two points ACROSS the H, you have a STANDARD socket. If you have continuity along the “lines” of the H, you have a CK socket. Many meters have a tone for this but if yours does NOT have a tone, you will look for all zeros on the screen which tells you that you have continuity. If you do NOT have continuity, you will not hear a tone (if your meter offers this) or you will see a very high number (10K, 100K, 1M, infinite, etc) on your screen. It’s just pretty simple for even an absolute beginner.There is one more variable with regard to your lights: CANBUS (Controller Area Network bus). Most European cars and many new domestic cars are starting to use CANBUS. The only way to know for sure about this is to consult either your dealer or the manufacturer of your vehicle. Unfortunately, I cannot help you with determining bulbs if you have CANBUS in your vehicle.UPDATE 6/10: Despite my best efforts to date including adding resistors (which tested fine), I was unable to resolve my issue of these bulbs flashing part time like a strobe and eventually just not lighting at all. In my 2014 Ram there are a number of electronic modules which are interconnected and, with regard to (at least) turn signals, will NOT allow these wonderful bulbs to work properly. The dealer tells me I do NOT have any sort of CANBUS in my truck, but we’re also talking about a dealer who couldn’t tell me where the flashers are located. I will continue to search for a solution so I can make use of these EXCELLENT bulbs and will further update when/if I figure things out. In the mean time, for those who have a truck like mine, the only bulbs you can change (plug and play) are the 3rd stop light, cargo lights, and back up lights. Should anyone in Amazonland have a resolution, I would like to learn from you.

2. 

   Rated 5 out of 5

   jason parks – October 9, 2022

   Is best backup lights easy to install super bright I highly recommend it

3. 

   Rated 4 out of 5

   Ysaak B. Wisdom – October 9, 2022

   Lights work great! Highly recommended

4. 

   Rated 4 out of 5

   Mosaico Tile – October 18, 2022

   Good

5. 

   Rated 5 out of 5

   Juan j hdz – October 27, 2022

   Funcionan bien solo que hace un pitido cuando pongo el señalero quisiera saber como contactarme con el vendedor para que me ayude o me oriente

6. 

   Rated 4 out of 5

   Mike Signs – November 9, 2022

   The details in the discription lead one to believe that it contains “circutry” to prevent hyperflash. It is a flat out lie. After successful installallation, I have hyperflash. Don’t believe everythiong you read in the description. 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche. look into replacing your flasher relay to compensate hyperflash.

7. 

   Rated 4 out of 5

   tim wallace – November 20, 2022

   Perfect replacement for standard bulbs and brighter

8. 

   Rated 5 out of 5

   Kevin K. – December 1, 2022

   Great Seller, Fast Shipping, Easy to Install, Nice & Bright. Hope They Last A Long Time.